On Tuesday, February 19, we arrived in Cape Town, South Africa and berthed at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. Although very nice, the Waterfront was akin to a "westernized" port with plenty of shops, restaurants, and opportunities to spend money on various excursions for eager tourists. On the plus side, there was a nice grocery store, ATM, and wine store within walking distance of the ship. Cape Town is set against the dramatic backdrop of Table Mountain which more times than not is shrouded in fog which gives the appearance of a table cloth on the "table". We were fortunate having clear conditions that allowed us to see some spectacular views of the peaks which include the Twelve Apostles, Lion's Head and Lion's Rump. The Table Mountain park encompasses almost 15,000 acres and has 1,470 species of plants. There are 350 paths to the summit which is 3,600 feet. This is a rather windy place sometimes experiencing 90+ MPH winds around the mountain. There is a cable car that takes 4 minutes to get to the top, however, it was closed due to high winds, so I climbed it. It took me 1 hour and 45 minutes to get to the top and fortunately the cable car re-opened so I could take it down. It was one of the hardest climbs I have made due to the "steps" on the trail that averaged about 24" high. Beautiful views were the reward on this peak that can be seen as far as 93 miles from sea. Whilst I was climbing, Stacey and Eric were touring and Kelsey was building a Habitat for Humanity House in one of the townships. The first evening we joined a few other faculty and dined on Malay food at a very local place in one of the neighborhoods about 20 minutes from the port.
On Wednesday, we gathered at 4:00 a.m. to take a bus, then two planes, and a 4 wheel drive vehicle to the site of our safari at Kapama game reserve which is about 13,000 hectacres in size and located on the northeastern side of South Africa adjacent to Kruger National Park. The second flight was in a vintage DC 4 airplane (same kind as used in the Berlin airlift). This four engine prop had seats larger than first class on today's jets, as well as spacious bathrooms and service unlike I have ever had on an airline including cold towels at the beginning of the flight, canapés including salmon, caviar, cheeses, cocktail sandwiches- all wonderfully prepared and presented, topped off with champagne. It was a very memorable flight in a vintage aircraft that replicated what flying used to be like.
Ten of us stayed at the Buffalo Camp- a very secluded camp that has a capacity of 16. It is considered rustic as there is no AC and we lived in tents built on platforms and suspended in trees. These tents included a bathroom and electricity and were nicely appointed. The lodge and Boma were simply wonderful. The African food was spectacular and the guides were exceptional. Each morning we woke up at 5:00 were on safari until 9:00 a.m. We came back to the camp for breakfast and took off again in the afternoon for a second safari that extended past sun down. What we saw included giraffes, white rhinos, African buffalo, elephants, hippos, jackals, lions, zebras, wildebeest, impalas, kudu, duikers, steinbuck, warthogs, monkeys, bushbuck, nyala, waterbuck, reedbuck, African wild cats, and scrub hares. What we did not see were leopards, cheetas, anteaters, and lynx. Maybe next time. It was close up and personal. The scenery and sightings were amazing. Africa is indeed a very special place in so many ways.
Upon returning from the safari, I was on call so I took a long walk on the ocean waterfront and had a late seafood lunch with a philosophy professor and his wife. Stacey arranged a tour and took Kelsey and Eric and several others around Cape Town. She will fill you in on that experience. The Fezuku High School choir came on board last night and delivered a rousing concert of African and Christian music to the shipboard community. Amazing experience. They even got Eric up there with them during a song/dance number.
As we all know, Africa in general, and South Africa, in particular, is not without challenges and problems. The remnants of Apartheid are still apparent and will most likely take generations to change. Poverty and the consequences of AIDS are clearly apparent. Exploitation of the land and problems in the townships as well as in Darfur and Sudan are difficult and complex. But despite these huge challenges, the people are very special, very proud, and very giving. In the context of this beautiful country, it is a special combination that beckons us to return.
We were due to leave on Sunday, February 24, but the port authorities would not release us due to fog so we left this morning and are enroute to Mauritius which is 2,300 nautical miles from Cape Town. Seas around the cape are generally a bit rougher than in other places. As of this writing (Monday at 2200 hours) the seas are at 3.5 to 4.5 meters. A cyclone recently hit northern Madagascar and the swells we are experiencing are remnants of that storm in addition to the movement caused by the confluence of the Atlantic and Indian oceans. That's about it for now. Stay tuned and take care.
Craig
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